Food and Love

My oldest daughter, Collette, calls my cookies my little ambassadors. She understands that special link between food and love.

I have four stories to share.

In July, our family member was facing a serious medical challenge. My sister-in-law, Hedy, arranged to meet me in town to drop off a pot of jook for us. She's famous for her jook. We are constantly teasing her to make us her ham and chicken jook which is like silk. Jook is what is known as rice congee. It is a soft rice porridge that is one of the ultimate comfort foods for locals along with other favorites like Portuguese bean soup, ochazuke and oxtail soup. As I ate each spoonful it was like I was eating a bowl of Hedy's love and caring for me. I could feel it warming my body. It was infinitely soothing. That's a loving gesture I'll never forget.

Two weeks ago I felt the urge to bake and bring some pineapple bars to my cousin's home. Her husband was seriously ill and was fast failing. All of their four adult sons had returned home and were helping their parents tremendously. I thought they might appreciate something home-baked for themselves and their many guests stopping by. When I delivered the pineapple bars I found out at my cousin's door that her husband had just passed away an hour previously. You know I wasn't fearful, I just felt calm and I had a certainty that I was meant to be with the family at this time. I wouldn't have wanted to be there earlier, that was a precious time for the immediate family.

The next day I felt the strong urge to make a big pot of my mother's shoyu chicken for that cousin's family. To me, this would be the a favorite "nursery" food and I hoped it would comfort. I thought it was funny in Paula Deen's book "It Ain't All About the Cooking" that one category that she describes of Southern food is food for funerals. Everyone brings their best dish, the actual beautiful plate and their most celebrated food, to the home of the bereaved. As it turned out a party sprung up around my Mom's shoyu chicken. My cousin with her sons, invited her brother and sister-in-law, her sister, myself and cousins over for dinner. I felt my Mom was there in spirit, partly responsible for getting us together, just as she used to for the whole family.


I attend Hope Chapel Kaneohe Bay, my wonderful, new church home. There is an intercessory prayer/healing ministry meeting that I attend called "The Upper Room", as in Pentecost. I've been going for a number of weeks now and just felt happy that Tuesday. I bake when I'm happy so I decided to make my liliko'i cupcakes for the Upper Room meeting that evening. The tropically flavor of this cake is one that everyone seems to enjoy. We usually don't bring snacks, instead concentrating on prayer and inviting the Presence of the Holy Spirit. I got a phone call just as I was dipping the cupcakes in their liliko'i glaze. Teresa, at whose home the Upper Room is held, called to tell me that tomorrow was her teenage son's, Freman's, birthday and she was going to pick up a cake on her way home from work before the meeting. I just told her "No need. I'm frosting it right now!"

These are just four examples of how baking and cooking with love, tapping into intuition and moving in the Spirit can bring about some pretty surprising results.

I used the recipe below but substituted my own Pineapple Chutney (Sam Choy's, published in a previous blog on anythingtoeat) for the cherry jam to make

PINEAPPLE BARS
Cherry Oatmeal Crunch Squares(Adapted slightly from the Essentials of Baking by Williams Sonoma, This recipe and the photo on the left were online at the blogsite called “Baking Sheets" )
1 3/4 cups flour
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 cup butter, very cold and cut into pieces
1 cup/10-oz cherry jam or non-chunky preserves
Preheat the oven to 325F and grease a 9-inch square baking pan.In the food processor, combine flour, oats, sugar, salt and cinnamon. Pulse to combine.Add butter and pulse 8-10 times, or until the mixture forms large, coarse crumbs. Set aside 2 cups of this mixture.Pour remaining crumb mixture into prepared pan and pack firmly against the bottom and 1-inch up the sides of the pan. Stir jam to loosen, then spread evenly onto this layer. Top with reserved crumb mixture.Bake for 50-55 minutes, until bars are a light, golden brown.Allow to cool in the pan on a wire rack, then cut into squares. Store in an airtight container.Makes 25.
Note: If you do not have a food processor see the 5th comment below to learn how to make this by hand. I like to use the heartier preserves myself like guava jam, Meyer Lemon marmalade, any sort of chutney. I'm even considering mincemeat.

HO! FOODS!

The first of four planned Whole Foods Markets was unleashed on Hawai'i last week at Kahala Mall. Swarms of foodies with pent-up desires were there, as I was, at the jamming opening. Every fifth person had a "Media" button on interviewing earnest managers and customers with a pleased, yet dazed look on their faces. So many new choices!!! Ho! Foods! I had to jockey with a professional photographer to get that one perfect shot of the whimsical frosted rose cupcakes in the display case.

Combine a raucous country fair with an elegant gourmet deli and that about sums up the atmosphere. The mainstream shopper has discovered what natural, organic and/or vegetarian devotees have known all along-that unadulturated, natural foods equates to healthier, cleaner and more defined flavor. Cooks behind the pizza counter were loudly hawking their samples with great gusto. A caveat. Many of the canned and boxed products can be gotten elsewhere on O'ahu at better prices. However, it's the freshly made food counters of pizza, plate lunches, fresh fish, sushi, et. al. that line the perimeter of the Market that sets it apart from others.

The Market has the largest array of specialty butters as well as a hefty selection of bar chocolates and cheeses. A few local producers are in evidence. Natural soaps from Maui, produce (e.g.,'ulu and herbs) packaged cookies, honey and jams. Throw in an in-house bakery of tempting pastries, recently baked breads, organic and natural meats and produce, a coffee/tea bar and a natural bath and body department and you've got the complete organic shopper's dream.

If you've ever been to a Whole Foods on the mainland you already have an idea of what to expect. The three destination places that I head to in any city while travelling includes a Trader Joe's, a Target and a Whole Foods. I have literally one duffel of omiyage I bring to my family from Hawai'i and the same duffel for bringing omiyage back home. That is a great time to find future birthday and Christmas gifts as well.

Forget the ripe bananas and yogurt smoothie smell we've come to associate with natural food stores. Whole Foods is the Valrhona of organic foods. I will still faithfully patronize the Kailua Down to Earth for their local-tastes savvy and the wide selection from their bulk bins. You just cannot beat the freshness and prices of their loose spices, teas and grains. I'll continue to be a faithful consumer at the two beloved Thursday Kailua Farmers' Markets and KCC's. Whole Foods just adds another welcomed option to the bountiful food offerings. Here's hoping they expand the local foods presence in their stores.

Samantha's Art

The painting on the left is entitled "Come Up Here!" and is one of a number of inspirational works which my daughter, Samantha, has done. I know I may be biased but I think her Art is beautiful and uplifting. Many others have told her the same. God has blessed her with so many gifts. Following is an email which she sent to family and friends after making the decision to have a painting of hers professionally scanned in order to make it available in high quality prints. Her contact information follows if you are interested in ordering a print.
-foodiewahine
___________

Here it is! I finally had one of my paintings professionally scanned and available for print(giclee). If you are interested in purchasing a print, please contact me through my email address at the end of this email message.

This is definitely a new venture for me. There is no pressure for you to order at all! My interest is to bless others with a more affordable copy of my work rather than having to pay higher for an original. I should be offering a wider selection but right now I'm experimenting with the whole idea of printing my work, and it does cost a lot to have a piece scanned into a giclee.

Thank you for supporting me in this endeavor whether its been through your encouraging comments or suggestions.

If you want to know more about this artpiece titled, "Come Up Here!" and my work in general, read on:
"Come Up Here" was originally painted at the request of a friend in Nov. '07. In Revelation 4:1, God invites John to heaven where he is given revelation about who He is and what His plans are. I wanted this painting to invite onlookers to encounter God. The eagle represents the person flying past the earth's atmosphere and into a heavenly realm. Its to encourage you that God wants to reveal Himself to you in all His glory.

In regards to my work in general, the Lord gave me three dreams in 2005 to start painting again after stopping when I was young. I didn't value art that much and didn't think it would take me anywhere. But I realize now it is a gift He has given me, not for my sake, but for others. Within the past year, I have had about three more dreams this time where I see the face or figure of Jesus in my paintings. He is telling me that my work is producing an invitation for others to encounter Him.

Thank you! May you be showered with God's love everyday and be filled with His joy!
*♥´¨)¸.·♥ ¸.·*♥´¨ ) ¸.♥·*¨)(¸.·´ (¸ ..♥·
Samantha Ah-Tye
ahtye7@gmail.com
Note: Samantha has a new blogsite for her Art at Encounterart.blogspot.com You can click the address in the column to the left of this post to view a sampling of her work.

Foodie Visit

I have to apologize for the delay in getting out this latest post. Suffice to say life has been interesting and challenging.

My dear friend, Tina Ho Wing, from LA and her daughter, Elisa, were here for a short visit Tina's graduated from a culinary school, has been a buyer for Wolfgang Puck's Food Network shows and is a culinary arts instructor at an LA high school. Tina has VERY discerning tastes and is a wicked cook and baker although very humble and down to earth about it all.

Tina's been to Hawai'i many times since her Mom is from here and she has an extensive network of local family and friends. From the airport I proffered Nico's Fish Market, Sam Choy's BLC or Young's Fish Market. Without a moment's hesitation Tina opted for Young's. This is the best direct-from-the airport choice for ex-pats or anyone who loves Hawaiian food. While Tina reminded me that L and L is populating the mainland with new Hawaiian Barbecue franchises we agreed that there's still something to be said for laulau freshly made and freshly steamed. I admit that I haven't been to a pa'ina lately and have gotten by on frozen laulau. Young's reminded us of how superior the real deal is. The juices from the laulau practically spurted out when we cut into the bundles with a fork. It had the perfect ratio of pork to luau leaves. It's no wonder Young's is the best place to go on O'ahu for Hawaiian food if you don't have a luau/pa'ina in your near future.

The second day was my choice. It was a delicious dilemma. We narrowed our options down to a plate lunch but of course it had to be something a bit out of the ordinary, likely from that new food genre of gourmet plate lunch. Although Sen. Barack Obama recently gave a nod to Zippy's and Rainbow, I wanted something more. I'd tried Kelvin Ro's baked goods before at KCC so I checked out Diamond Head Market and Grill ("DHMC") a day before Tina was to come in. It was one of those, where have I been all this time, moments. I know, I know, people will say, "What??? You are only discovering this place, now?"

DMBC is a small storefront on Monsarrat Ave. It's divided into a smallish deli on the left and a plate lunch counter on the right. Kelvin Ro, formerly the owner/chef at Kahala Moon, is the owner/chef of DMBC and does catering on the side. We loved the myriad and imaginative choices for entrees, sides and desserts on the Deli side in particular: from duck confit to take home and heat for a special dinner to mochiko salads in plastic clamshell containers. The desserts were alluring: Lemon Crunch Cake (just like Alexander Young Hotel's but with the addition of a bright lemony filling), Liliko'i Cheesecake (Tina's comment was that while it tasted "tropical", truthfully, not that much of that distinct passion fruit flavor) and about a dozen other offerings. Maybe the most intriguing of the plate lunches was the Kim Chee Fried Rice for breakfast which Tina will save for a future visit.

From Waikiki we went on up Tantalus Drive to the Gift Shop at the Contemporary Art Museum. We intended to have tea and yet another dessert from their award-winning Cafe but unfortunately were too full to eat another bite. The grounds are beautifully kept with a spectacular view of Diamond Head. Don't forget to spray yourself with bug spray at the Entrance because the mosquitoes can be bothersome.

The last day of Tina's visit we decided to check out the restaurants at McCully Shopping Center. Just a bite to eat because Tina and Elisa had been feted at Nobu's (!) by her cousin, Dr. Edward Ho, and his gracious wife, the night before. I highly recommended Phuket Thai to Tina based on my past pleasant experiences with both of their restaurants. That turned out to be Tina's pick. So glad we went there because it was the perfect ending to her visit for us. We shared the special of Thai Green Curry Chicken with Green Papaya Salad, Sticky Rice (absolutely critical) and Thai Iced Coffee. It was exactly the kind of light meal we both craved and it was perfectly executed.

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I made a Thai Red Curry Pork at home a couple of days after our shared meal and included some fresh bamboo shoots from the Kailua Farmer's Market. I've posted about this little gem of a food find before. The market is held in the parking lot next to Kailua Intermediate School on Thursdays at 9 a.m. Bamboo shoots have to be boiled for 20 minutes in water to extract the bitterness but the resulting flavor is outstanding and the texture is much more crisp than the canned product.

-foodiewahine

Lychee Time

A large paper shopping bag's worth of red, plump lychee. What a delight! Thank you, Alanna, Wendy and Blake who have carried on their family's tradition of delivering lychee from their Aiea home to us, fortunate recipients. When I think of it I believe this tradition is going on 60 years. It was first started by Blake's parents and has continued on through the next generation.

Lychee and mangoes were the first indication that summer was here when I was growing up. We'd eat green lychee with a slight pink tinge straight off the tree at Judd St. because we couldn't wait for the fruit to ripen. We'd then have an upset stomach for the rest of the afternoon. I'm sure that people on the mainland have stories of doing the same thing as an impatient kid with ripening but still greenish Georgia peaches or pink-red strawberries on the vine.

I'd have to say that lychee is my favorite fruit. The first ripe lychee of the summer may just about be the best. You break the red, spiked, papery peel of the lychee with your thumb. At first the surface of the translucent flesh is shiny. If the lychees have been in the fridge then in just a second a light matte coating of condensation covers the fruit. You take that first bite (juice may drip down your arm) and you receive that distinctive floral taste through your taste buds and your nose. The texture of the tart sweet flesh of the lychee is firm and cold. There's really no fruit like it. Not even the longan, the dragon's eye, compares.

It's a ton of work to upkeep a lychee tree. There's fertilizing, raking the leaves, watering when it's too hot, pruning and finally picking the lychee being careful to take a branch with a bundle on the end so that the lychee will last longer. When our extended family is annually blessed with this gift from the Aiea Vance family it comes fully loaded with their love and our own happy childhood memories.

Lychee is best eaten as is. Blake and Wendy have been to New Orleans. So, I dedicate, in gratitude, this simple dessert recipe to their family. It's a take on Bananas Foster.

Bananas Lychee Vance
Place 2 Tablespoons each of butter and Myers's rum (or lychee vodka) and 8 Tablespoons (1/2 cup) of brown sugar in a cold, high-sided pan. Heat on Med. High briefly, just until the sugar melts and starts to caramelize, about 3 minutes, being careful NOT to allow the rum to ignite. Too scary. Add 2 small, sliced, partially ripe but still firm apple bananas, 6 unbroken pecans and 1 tsp. of cinnamon. Cover the bananas and the pecans with the syrup. Take off the heat as soon as the bananas are warmed through. Pour over very cold vanilla ice cream. Makes two servings for dainty, polite people or 1 serving for one hungry, greedy person. Top each serving with a 2 Tablespoon dollop of lychee yogurt (Meadow Gold sells it locally) or whipped cream and four seeded lychees cut in half.

Clean Fish

My brother-in-law is a no nonsense kind of guy. If there is a task to be done he likes to do it quickly and immediately. This is what I noticed when I talked to first my sister, then her husband.

Sister to sister, when I'm asking Sherry for a favor I'll launch into a whole long 15 minute explanation to her of the who, what, why, when and where. I found two gorgeous whole four pound 'Ahi at the Kailua Farmer's Market and I'm not that ma'a (familiar) with cleaning and filleting fish that size. Give me a smaller red fish, 'Aweoweo or Menpachi, no problem, but, a larger 'Ahi or Aku, and I get a bit worried. After some internal hemming and hawing and even walking back to the car I told myself to turn around and go back. Just buy the fish already, because I can't go on being forever intimidated by cutting up whole fish.

I reasoned if I tackled this task of cleaning and filleting by myself, using a cookbook, it would take me an hour or two and I would be left with something that looks mangled and like fishcake. On the other hand, if he was willing and I was able to watch my brother-in-law, Nathan, a lifelong fisherman, I would pick up all those expert tips and great shortcuts that would simplify the whole process. And, I know he would create perfect matching 'Ahi fillets.

Right after talking with my sis about asking her husband to teach me to clean the fish I called her husband on his cell phone. That conversation lasted 15 seconds.
Me-"Hey, Nathan, can you show me how to clean 'Ahi? I have two, gonna give you guys one."
Nathan-"Nah, no need, no need. It's on ice, yeah? Come after lunch"
Me-"(slightly offended) Of course it's on ice. (cheerfully) OK, I'll be there."

I showed up with an apron, a camera, ziplocs and the cooler full of ice and the fish. Nathan sharpened two knives, a smaller one for the detail work and a larger one to chop the bones. We went outside their home to a sink that was made especially for fish cleaning. They also have an outside wok so all those smells and smoke don't linger in the house.

A disclaimer here, I'm not using the technically correct terms for parts and bones of the fish. Nathan expertly sliced the side fin off starting two inches behind the side fin, working in the direction from the tail to the head and also taking with it what he called the fish armor. This armor is a two-inch in diameter configuration of cartilage. Then, he came up to the vent in the head and snapped the spinal bone with a blow using the larger knife. He discarded the head, guts, gills and any soft red matter.

Nathan sliced the back bone horizontally off, again working tail to head, taking off more fish armor in the process. He took off that sharp, small, pointy back fin (careful, I've been poked by these fins before and it isn't pretty). Some people like the darker red blood meat strips next to the pinker flesh but many find it too gamy so you can cut that off as well, he said.

Nathan slit off the bottom belly fin, again horizontally, slit open the belly and removed the guts from the stomach cavity. He cut the bottommost belly portion off from the rest of the fish. He cautioned me to cut off the greenish one-inch by four-inch bile portion with a scissors later. Nathan said that 'ahi belly is a delicacy and to always fry it, dredging in seasoned flour first.

Nathan made a small cut just above the bone that runs down the middle of the fish, right past the tail and inserted the index finger of his left hand as a convenient handle to grip the fish (Excellent tip! See photo on left). With his smaller knife in his right hand, he skimmed over the middle fish bones and created tension by holding the tail portion with his left finger. Nathan cut the fish in half horizontally. He flipped the fish over, created another handle for his finger to hold and cut the second fillet off the middle bones the same way. He continued to pull off pieces of red matter as he went along. It was only at this point that he chopped the tail off.

Nathan used his very sharp smaller knife to skim the fillet off the skin. He placed the fillet with the skin side down and he skimmed over the skin separating the skin from the flesh. He very skillfully took the skins off both fillets in almost one intact piece, no easy feat. Discard the skin, the head, the red matter, the guts, the gills and the blood meat. Keep the bones and the tail for the recipe below.

I thanked him profusely and kept the bones for the very best miso soup imaginable. My mind has been happily conjuring up images of what to do with these gorgeous, super fresh fillets. 'Ahi sashimi with hot mustard-soy or ginger-sesame oil-soy sauces? 'Ahi poke? Fried 'Ahi steaks sizzling in butter, salt and pepper? Jessie Kiyabu's super fried 'Ahi cakes? This makes me happy. Even though Nathan did all the cutting in a flash, 15 min. max per fish, I felt that with my photos, my memory and his super tips, I could confidently tackle my next whole fish by myself.

Easy 'Ahi Bone Miso Soup
Bring the 'ahi bones, a couple of dried shrimp (ama ebi) and 4 cups of water to a boil. Turn down to a high simmer and skim off scum occasionally. Simmer for 30 minutes. Take out and discard the bones and ama ebi. Strain the broth through two layers of cheesecloth over a colander to get rid of extra scum. In a bowl, using a wire whisk, whisk 1 cup of miso with 1 cup of water until the miso is dissolved. Pour into the 'ahi broth. Turn to Med-High but do not boil. Serve immediately with shredded and cooked 'Ahi or chicken, small cubes of tofu and chopped green onions.

Island Plate II

Two weeks ago I was blessed to be involved in the photo shoot for Wanda Adams' third cookbook, tentatively titled "Island Plate II". It's a follow up to her bestselling "Island Plate" which commemorated the Honolulu Advertiser's 150th Anniversary. Wanda has this amazing ability to look at a recipe and to be able to tell if it's going to be one winnah.... or not.

We were a close knit but diverse team of food and design people. I loved hearing the almost foreign languages in the SubZero kitchens. Romeo would say "Close to onion" and Iwa, Brian and Scott would know exactly what he was talking about. That means something like the shot has to be tighter for the onion but who knows? Wanda and I would talk about blanching, then "shocking" the baby bok choy.

There were a couple of dishes, like this pancake recipe, that required split second timing. It must have looked hilarious to see our choreography. I was stationed at the oven window and intoned the minutes like the Iron Chef announcer until the pancake was ready. As soon as it puffed to its fullest I whisked it to the stainless steel table which had already been tested for lighting. Iwa plopped on raspberries. Wanda dusted it with a flurry of powdered sugar, then one last dollop of whipping cream and we all stepped back for the rapid fire photographs.

I cannot divulge any recipes from the cookbook except the following David Eyre's Pancake which is a version of Dutch Babies. It can be found all over the Internet.

David Eyre was the founding editor of Honolulu magazine who played host to the NY Times' Craig Claiborne in the 60's. David served Craig this pancake and Craig wrote a story about it. The story goes that when Craig retired he was asked which was his most requested recipe during his long and illustrious tenure as food editor and Craig said, hands down, it was this one.

David Eyre’s Pancakes
w/revisions by MC

One-half cup flour
One-half cup milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
One-half teaspoon nutmeg (do not leave this out)
4 Tablespoons butter (this is one-half a block)
2 Tablespoons confectioner’s sugar (measure, then sift)
Juice of one quarter of a lemon, remove seeds

Make the batter just before baking, do not make ahead. Have everything ready before you begin. Do not do any steps ahead of time.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
In a mixing bowl, combine flour, milk, eggs and nutmeg.
Beat until well mixed but never mind a few lumps in the batter.

Melt butter in an 11 inch oven safe aluminum or other metal (not nonstick) skillet, in the oven. An 8 x 8” square or 8" round metal pan will work equally well. Leave the pan in the oven to heat. (Do not melt the butter first and pour into the pan.)

Take the pan out of the oven. Carefully and slowly pour in batter into the middle of the hot pan that has the melted butter. Bake in a 425 degree oven approximately 20 minutes or until pancake puffs and turns golden brown. Sprinkle generously with the powdered sugar and the lemon juice, over all. Return briefly to the oven for 30 seconds so that sugar and lemon juice can amalgamate.
Makes 2-4 servings.
Can top with stabilized whipped cream and fruit: raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, bananas, sliced pineapple with macnuts. Or you can leave out the sugar and lemon juice and make it savory with a cream sauce, like chicken or a shrimp curry.
Stabilized whipping cream: measure 1 cup of heavy cream. Whip until soft peaks form. Add 2 teaspoons of sugar and 1 tablespoon of sour cream or plain yogurt. Whip to stiff peaks.

Volcano!

Everything that I planned didn't happen. However, everything that was supposed to happen, did. That about sums up my trip to Hilo for Merrie Monarch '08 last week. My confirmed Aloha Airline tickets became Hawaiian Airline standby tickets. Friends I was supposed to meet couldn't make it because of the closure of our beloved Aloha Airlines just one week before the start of MM. Things that were supposed to happen, didn't pan out. However, I found that if I just let go of my attachment to my carefully laid plans that things flowed along wonderfully well as He planned. His plans are not ours, how true!

I heard about Aloha's closure early enough to secure tickets on Hawaiian, leaving one day earlier for Hilo than planned and staying two days longer in order to avoid the pandemonium at the airports. This gave me the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to view Volcano in two locations after all the excitement of Merrie Monarch died down. Less crowds.

The stars aligned to allow us to see Madame Pele in her eternal struggle with her sister, Namakaokahai, the Sea, at Kalapana with my good friend, Carol. We watched the ocean hiss and steam in five places as magma, spatter and glowing chunks of rock broke off and fell into the ocean. It was a 20 minute walk over a black lava field to reach the lookout from the parking area. The lookout was about a 1/2 mile upwind from the lava. Upwind is important because the scientists at Volcano have been measuring dangerous levels of sulfur dioxide emitting from the ground at Kalapana and from a plume cloud of gasses from a crater within Halema'uma'u Crater in Volcanoes National Park.

At all times the parking lot attendants, volunteers, volcanologists and rangers were extremely polite and helpful to any request or question. They were stationed in three to four groups from the parking lot to the lookout and along the path. There were even Portapotties set up in the parking lot. The atmosphere was of contained excitement and joy. Joy at just being there at that place and time to view something awe inspiring.

The lookout is a wide, mostly flat area where about 1,000 onlookers oohed, aahed and took photos and videos of the lava reaching the sea. There was no sulfer smell and no other sound, just an occasional hissing as a steam cloud rose. This is in stark contrast to the other great viewing of the Volcano that I had when I was a child. At that time I viewed Kilauea Iki reaching 1,200 feet. There was the sharp smell of sulfur, the roar of a 100 jets and heat so strong it melted the film in our Brownie cameras.

The sight of lava is totally mesmerizing. You become almost addicted to wanting to stay just 5 minutes more to see what will happen next. After two hours I left Carol in Puna where she stays 6 months out of the year. At the Kea'au intersection I had a choice, left back to the Volcanoes Park to see the steam cloud or right, back to Hilo. I wanted to see the steam cloud at night and reasoned that there must be some glow from the magma below. Plus, even though it was 10 I wasn't tired, I felt energized and excited. I'd recovered my sleep from the MM marathon. While I still had one more night before I left Hilo I was already halfway to the Park. So, my rental car turned left.

I'm so glad I went back to the Park. The Jaggar lookout had been closed for weeks and just reopened three days prior. That's where I drove. It was then 10:30 pm, 56 deg. out and pitch black. I thanked Paul silently for his insistence that I take a big ol' 9 volt flashlight instead of my dinky one.

The sight from Jaggar museum lookout was literally breathtaking and a bit eerie. There was again, no sound, no smell, just a glowing red pit in the distance and a 2 mile high plume illuminating the pitch black all around. The plume cloud is white during the day but at night it reflects the magma deep below the surface to mimic an eruption. There was only a handful of locals there with me.

The next day I awoke to the news that 7 hours after I'd left Halema'uma'u the Park was completely closed for 2 days for the first time in its history. I felt blessed that I'd made the decision to go the night before. The winds had shifted towards the Volcano House and Volcano Village. Civil Defense had raised the alarm level for the sulfur dioxide up to the highest level, purple.

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If you plan to go to Kalapana to view the lava hitting the sea you MUST have these things:
Sufficient water to drink, sunblock and a hat if you go during the day
Closed shoes, preferably boots or running shoes, with a good gripping tread
A large, bright flashlight (9 volt is good) with new batteries at night

A good website to check out prior to viewing the volcano is the one for USGS Hawaiian Volcanoes Observatory. It provides volcano updates, sulfur dioxide levels, webcams, photos and videos.

Won Tons in Chili Oil

The Chinese term for won ton is "Swallowing Clouds". I've always thought that was a sweet, poetic way to describe a delicious experience. When I think about it, the lowly won ton has always been connected to a heightened experience in my life, whether it's a festive gathering, a celebration or just simply a special snack.

My mother used to serve us freshly boiled won tons in a bowl sprinkled with a little shoyu and sesame oil. We could never wait for the complete meal with the soup and the vegetables so she would oblige us by making this simple dish.

I was reminded of my mother's solution to our lunchtime hunger when I had a much more elaborate dish, Won Tons in Chili Oil, at an upscale Northern Chinese restaurant in Waikiki. I thoroughly enjoyed this new twist on an old standby, enjoying the smooth ("wat") won ton pi, the savory, chunky shrimp and pork filling and the unexpected heat from the chili oil. Of course, I had to try and duplicate it immediately. Maybe this should be called "Swallowing Thunderclouds".


Won Tons in Chili Oil with Crisp Garlic

Chili Oil
1 cup of peanut oil
2 Tablespoons Sambal or Chili Garlic Paste
6 small red chili peppers- remove stems and chop finely including seeds

Deep Fried Garlic, sold in red packages of 8 oz., made in Taiwan called “Crisp Garlic” Golden Buffalo brand. It is carried by Don Quijote or Marukai. These look like tiny brown cubes a bit larger than raw sugar.

Mix all the above ingredients except garlic. Heat for 1 minute on High. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of crisp garlic into the hot oil. Set aside.


Make won tons.

Won Tons
1 pkg. Sun Noodle won ton skins ("pi")

1 lb. ground pork, preferably local pork
6 raw shrimp, chopped fine
6 stems of Chinese parsley, chopped very finely, use top 4” of each stalk with leaves, discard tough bottom stems
3 stalks of green onion, chopped fine
6 water chestnuts, drained and chopped
2 inch piece of ginger, unpeeled, grated on a ceramic grater or Microplane grater
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1 raw egg, beaten
1 Tablespoon Scotch Whiskey
2 teaspoons shoyu
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Mix all above ingredients, except won ton skins, together lightly with a fork until well mixed.
Fill the won ton pi with about 1 and ½ teaspoons of filling, do not overstuff. Fold won ton skins over filling. Use a little water or egg white as a "glue" for the skins. Place finished won tons on a cookie sheet and as you make the won tons cover with a damp dish towel that’s been wrung out. This keeps the skins from drying out. Boil a pot of water and cook the won tons in the water until they float, about 3 minutes. Drain.

For a pupu: Place 5 drained won tons in a bowl. Sprinkle lightly with Yamasa soy sauce. Pour 2 Tablespoons of hot chili oil with crisp garlic over won tons. Fold together gently to coat.

Variations: This same recipe can be used for won ton in soup. The chili oil is left out. You place cooked won tons in chicken broth with vegetables such as mustard cabbage ("gai choy"). Or, you can fry the won tons is hot oil for a different kind of pupu. Sweet chili sauce would be a good dipping sauce.

Note: Extra uncooked won tons may be frozen in one layer on a cookie sheet in the freezer and then placed in a Ziploc. You can cook them, still frozen, in boiling water. They may take a minute or two longer to cook and float.
Extra chili oil can be kept in the refrigerator.

The Great Gau Exchange

Few foods evoke more memories for Chinese from Hawai'i than Gau. For me, Gau is about waking up to the sound of firecrackers popping outside of my Popo Chun's temple at 6:00 am on Chinese New Year's Day. I'm five years old again and I wake up with the happy thought that if I run over to my Popo's house before school with my brother, Merrill, and wish her a "Gung Hee Fat Choy!" I will be rewarded with a leesee. This will contain the small fortune of a crisp $5.00 bill. In the mid 50's this amount would mean spending money for months into the future! So many things to consider: a new kite? a new yoyo? an Archie or Richie Rich comic? a wooden top to add to my growing collection? a gooey paper bag of apricot mui from Wing Coffee where my Aunty Wilma works?

Three foods were always present at Chinese New Year's. There was a huge Gau from my Popo, ten inches across, four inches high with sesame seeds sprinkled over the top and crowned with a single red date in the center. There was Jai, which I never cared for, once my older and supposedly wiser cousin solemnly informed me that the bok gwo, the white nuts, were actually frog's eyes. Not. It took me into my adult years before I tried Jai again and loved it. There was impossibly thin Jin Duey. So spoiled. I sometimes ate the sweet black bean-filled Jin Duey straight from the hot oil in my Popo's gigantic wok. Hot, crisp, perfect Jin Duey. Big Sigh!

It's 2008 and I've coordinated a gathering of Gau-proficient friends for Food Editor Wanda to meet for an Advertiser article. These happy women, in their forties to eighties, make and bring a total of 8 different kinds of Gau (most importantly, with treasured recipes!) to my friend, Elsie's, Aina Haina home. It started with an email from Wanda asking me Gau questions regarding my mother's recipe I'd emailed her last year. At least ostensibly it was supposed to be a Gau demo and exchange but it was, what every gathering of locals becomes, a PAR-TAY! Elsie repeatedly assured me that she wouldn't go through any trouble. I repeatedly assured her that we would take care of everything. Wanda brought all the ingredients from a detailed and far-flung products list. I was in charge of the hard ware, the mixing, steaming and baking equipment. Elsie said she would serve just "tea" for our little yum cha.

Well, Elsie made enough lunch for a small army although there were only 6 of us, plus, we all took home leftovers. She'd whipped up a huge layered overnight salad, her Aunt Bina's Portuguese Lima Bean Soup and date cake. All delicious, all from scratch. How do these women do that overnight? It's magic.

Elsie is a firecracker of a woman and at 88 with more energy than an 8 year old. Her friend, Gladys was so humble but a fount of Chinese lore and tradition. Sweet Cathy, who knows Elsie too, was the hard worker in the background making it so easy for us to do our tasks. Wanda was there with her camera, camcorder and notepad, asking astute questions to capture this moment. Deborah, the Advertiser photographer, arrived precisely an hour after the rest of us did, as planned, to give us the requisite time to talk story, exchange New Year presents and meet and greet.

The Gaus were all different but had the common denominator of being 'ono. Wanda brought a Shanghainese microwaved Gau chock full of red jujubes and pinenuts. This recipe was taught to her by the gal who teaches the Narcissus Queen participants. Cathy brought an unusual white Nian Gau from a Hanahau'oli cookbook. It had dried cherries and walnuts. I brought three versions of Gau from two recipes. There was the traditional steamed Gau with yams taught to me by my friend Susan 15 years ago. While steaming takes a minimum of 4 hours, I also baked the same batter for 1 hour. My mother's modern baked Gau with tsubushian that I brought was well received. Cathy and I made a modern steam/baked Gau with coconut milk during the gathering.

The main event was the involved and complicated process of making the traditional Gau by Gladys and Elsie. Cathy and I would take turns with mixing our simpler baked Gau in order to run back and forth to catch all the snippets of important information being generously doled out by Gladys and Elsie. First, they spent a half hour creating a ti leaf basket for the Gau to steam in. This was probably the first culinary nonstick surface. Then, they mixed the Gau batter by hand all the while relying on eye and instinct to determine the correct consistency. Elsie patiently watched the steaming pot for over 7 hours! Each procedure has its own distinct set of skills. We all felt very honored and humbled to be present to watch this re-creation of a favorite childhood sweet.

At lunch, we enjoyed (small) pieces of each of the many Gaus. Wanda brought a sample plate to the sophisicated palates of the Advertiser newsroom. I was so pleased to hear that my friend, Susan Chock's, traditionally steamed yam Gau turned out to be a favorite for both groups, that I raised both hands in the air and shouted "Yay!" as if I'd won an Olympic event!

-foodiewahine

Susan Chock's Gau
(Thank you Susan, for sharing your recipe, it's so precious to us!)

3 (1 lb.) boxes Mochiko
3 (1 lb.) packages of Wong Tong, Chinese brown sugar in blocks. 7 slabs to a pkg. Do not substitute regular brown sugar.
2 -3 lbs. fresh yams. No substitutions. Yams have a maroon skin, orange flesh.
3 cups water (opt.: Can add coconut milk but reduce water proportionately. Gau will then need refrigeration)
Washed ti leaves or dried bamboo leaves which are soaked for two days in water to soften.
Four 8" steaming baskets or pans
sesame seeds
Optional: 1 red date, Hung Jo, a jujube

The day before, cook yams with the peel on, in water to cover for approx. 45” until very soft or microwave. Peel, cool, set in the refrigerator overnight.

Melt brown sugar in 3 cups of water over medium heat until melted, about 15 min. Cool completely.

Line bamboo steamer containers with ti leaves in a circular pattern covering the steamer basket completely. May use string to create a collar.

Mash yams, taking out any large fibers or eyes. Mix sugar-water, mochiko and yams first with a wire whisk then by hand. This is like kneading. The batter should be like a stiff, very thick cake batter. You may have to add up to another 1 cup of water for the right consistency.

Place the batter into the steaming baskets that are lined with ti leaves. Place bamboo baskets in a pot for steaming over 1” of water. First bring to a boil then turn down to a high simmer but do not boil constantly. Place a thin dishtowel over the top of the pot under the lid. Check every hour to make sure that no water is dripping back down onto the gau during the steaming. Steam for 4 hours. Cool completely. A plastic knife will cut through the gau without dragging.
Servings: approximately 36
Note: you can cut the recipe by 1/3 by using 2 lbs. of mochiko, 2 blocks of sugar, etc. You can also use any available assortment of different sized baskets, cans and pans.
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A HUGE Mahalo to Wanda, Elsie, Cathy, Gladys and Deborah for a wildly fun and successful Gau Fest. It would not have been possible without the generosity of those (Susan!) who shared their treasured family recipes.

Wanda Adam's informative and lively Gau-a-thon (her name for it) article with accompanying recipes, photos and video are on the Honolulu Advertiser's website for Jan. 23rd, 2008 in the Taste section.

Chinese New Year's falls on February 7 this year. Support your local Chinatowns.

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